Conscious Choice Seattle: Indulgent Italian

January 2006 | Local Food

Indulgent Italian

This authentic spot will bend but not break healthful resolutions

By Nora West

January is historically the time for the less indulgent, bit more Spartan lunchtime ritual. Some resolve to take a walk or fit in a workout, followed by a quick and healthy snack.

Pontevecchio may thwart these intentions.

Frankly, I don’t think deprivation is usually a good idea anyway. There is absolutely nothing wrong with an indulgent meal thrown in with your fresh New Year’s resolution mix.

This restaurant is versatile. On my recent lunch, as I happily dined alone, not a bit uncomfortably, I saw a group of six, couples and other single diners.

The interior is casual yet elegant, rustic yet romantic. There are white tablecloths and plenty of tables for two. In the evening I imagine it is aglow in candlelight and quite the cozy spot.

The lunch menu offers paninis, primi piatti and secondi piatti. I ordered ravioli (about $10) from the primi piatti, made with vegetables—spinach and roasted red pepper in a robust red sauce. Some of the other choices were capelli (angel hair) with eggplant, pennette with meat sauce and a mushroom risotto. The secondi piatti choices were items like chicken or veal. At dinner, the selection is more extensive.
Prior to my lunch, a platter of little triangles of toasted bread arrived, sprinkled lightly with herbs and oil. It was such a thoughtful, tasty touch.

After my ample and delicious pasta came a fresh salad, just the right size. It featured a handful of greens, red onions and tomatoes served with a light oil and vinegar dressing. A very refreshing finale to a lovely, leisurely lunch.

The paninis are another reason to find your way to Fremont for lunch. If you are in a hurry, walk up to the small window and order one to go. Pontevecchio advertises a $7 lunch complete with panini, chips and a soda. Believe me, that is a bargain for both your taste buds and lunchtiime budget.

Paninis here are quite good and comforting. The one I took to go was turkey, bacon, mozzarella, honey mustard and mayo all grilled to perfection on bread with just-right thickness.

The food is wonderful—substantive, well-prepared and fresh. I would order anything here. But as good as the food is, the service is just as good. Friendly, accommodating and pleasant. I took my time and never felt rushed or hurried. Yet if I had been in a lather to get back to work, I would have been accommodated.
Linger over an espresso or gelato if you wish. I had read awhile ago that Pontevecchio holds evening Italian classes. And there is live music on certain nights, such as flamenco on Thursdays and opera from Seattle Opera members on Fridays.

Pontevecchio offers interesting wines and specials. All this said, I imagine it a very fun place to go for an evening of food, drink and merrymaking. I noticed a sign on the piano that said, “We reserve the right to refuse service to those not in love.”

Enough said.

If you must hold to austere January promises, remember Valentine’s Day is just around the corner.

Nora West is Conscious Choice’s dining critic.

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